Just One Step

My family loves surfing.  The odd part of that reality is that we live in Idaho, a 10-hour drive from the nearest ocean.  We own 3 longboards and load them up each summer to spend 2 weeks surfing the cold, uncrowded waters of Central Oregon.

I have the same feeling each year I head out to catch my first wave of the year.  My heart all but stops as the first wave comes at me.  To ride a wave into the shore is the greatest feeling.  You are literally on top of the water.  It's power moves you.  There is nothing that compares to it.  Unfortunately, in order to enjoy the ride you must wade through a number of powerful waves that are trying to keep you on shore.

Each year, I step into the ocean, my heart starts racing as I see the curl of the wave crash and head towards me.  It's force knocks me back a bit, but I don't fall.  I breathe.  I wonder why I am taking this beating.  I keep walking.  Another wave hits me, then another.  For every 5 steps farther out, the waves push me back 3, but it feels like 10.  I can feel the current pulling at my legs the opposite direction the waves are pushing.  I can see a nice wave, one I know I could ride, but it's too far away.  I need to hurry to get out there.  Another one knocks into me.  There is no sense to what I am doing.

Finally, I get outside the crashing waves. I sit up on my board and enjoy the roll of the ocean and the peace. Everything stops.  A good wave comes, I paddle into it, jump my feet to my board and soar to the beach.  It only lasts a few seconds. I quickly grab my board, turn around and head back through the gauntlet of waves to do it again.

Why do I share this story?  We know that achieving our goals and dreams will be amazing.  We also know that the steps to get there may be fraught with difficulties.  With all this in mind, we freeze.  We don't take one step into the waves because we are afraid.  We are afraid of what the waves might do.  Instead of being afraid of failure, we should remember the flying.  We should remember that we don't get to fly unless we make it through the waves that threaten to push us back.

I experienced this recently.  I took my first step through the rising wave and wasn't knocked down.  I had a small victory that gave me strength to take the next step.  The ride is worth the work.